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How To Build Modern Kitchen Cabinets

Leg members D, Fig. 2, have rabbets cut on each edge at the end to produce a tenon that will fit into the notch previously cut in the front rails. Cut a gain 11/8" wide, 51/2" long and 5/8" deep on the face of the leg to take stretcher E, using a dado head in the bench saw or a router bit in the drill press. Chisel out the wood remaining in the lower corner. The legs taper to 51/2" at the lower end. This taper may be cut on the bench saw with a taper-cutting jig or on the band saw and dressed with a smooth plane.

In stretcher E, cut a rabbet on the upper edge at one end to fit under back rail B. Also cut a gain 11/8" wide, 43/8" long and 5/8" deep along the center line of support F as shown in Fig. 2. Stretcher E is glued to leg D and support F. Brads may be toed in to tie the members together. To assemble, drive four 2" No. 9 flathead screws through the back rail and into the support as in Fig. 3. Fasten the front leg to the front rail with similar screws. Use 11/2" No. 8 flathead screws through the rails and into the underside of the top. Finally, cement linoleum 24" x 48" to the top and trim edges and ends flush. Cut the edging H, miter the butting ends, and secure it to the frame as in Fig. 4 with 5/8" No. 5 oval-head screws. Round the outer corners with sandpaper.

To install the table, drive two 21/2" No. 10 flathead screws through the support member into the wall studs after locating the latter and boring holes in the support member to suit. A 3/4" dowel extends from the bottom of the leg into the floor.

In cutting out the stock for the benches, remember that one is left-hand and the other right-hand. This affects K, J, L and M. Uprights K are laid out as in Fig. 7, but cut the dado to take the arm before shaping this member. Arm J is lapped into the dado; then the rabbet on the upper edge and outer end is cut on the bench saw. Cut the taper on the lower edge and fasten arm to upright with glue and 11/4" No. 10 flathead screws.