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How To Build Modern Kitchen Cabinets
A bill of materials is given for cabinets of each width. Those ranging from 16" to 24" require only one door as shown in the bill, while the cabinets of 28" to 36" widths require two doors. Regardless of size, all cabinets are alike in construction details, the only variance being the lengths of the horizontal members.
When the widths have been decided upon, the material for each cabinet should be cut to the sizes given in the bill of materials. Each piece should be marked with its proper key letter for future identification. If the cabinets are to be constructed of solid wood rather than plywood, it may be necessary to glue up two or more narrow widths of stock to produce panels having the required widths. Paneling methods were described and illustrated in detail on pages 4 and 5 of this book.
The working drawing shown in Fig. 1 is based on a cabinet 28" wide; nevertheless, the details shown are identical for cabinets of any width. Actual construction of the cabinet is started with the side members (A). As shown in Fig. 5, these pieces have a rabbet cut on the upper end to take the top piece, a rabbet cut along the back edge to take the back panel, a dado cut near the lower end for the bottom member and two gains cut at the upper and lower back edges to take the back rails. With the exception of the gains, which must be cut by hand with a chisel, the rabbets and dado can be cut on the bench saw. The adjustable shelves are supported by means of dowels. Holes are located and bored in the side members to provide for the dowels. The location, size and depth of the dowel holes can be seen in the side section (B-B) and the top section (A-A) of Fig. 1.
With the completion of the necessary work on the two side members, the carcase for the cabinet can be assembled. The bottom (C) is glued in the dado at the lower end of side (A). The top (U) is glued in the rabbet at the upper end of the side piece with 11/2" No. 8 flathead screws driven down through the top and into the end of the side piece as shown in Fig. 6. The back rails (L) are set into the gains and fastened to the side pieces with 8penny finishing nails driven through the rail and into the back edge of the gain. These back rails must be fastened to the top and bottom members (U and C) with 11/2" No. 10 flathead screws as shown in Figs. 5 and 6.
