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How To Build Modern Kitchen Cabinets

In order to enclose the space above the cabinets, a framework must be installed as shown in the first sketch. To this framework, wallboard or plywood can be attached. The stock used to make the framework need be no heavier than 11/8" x25/8 and may be as light as 3/4" thick, depending on the bracing and height of the upright members. Cleats are fastened to the cabinet top and to the ceiling so as to provide nailing strips for the uprights. The cleats are notched to take uprights. In this way the cleats and uprights are made flush to permit the fastening of the panel on all sides.

Before any attempt is made to set the cleats in place, the thickness of the panel must be determined, as the setback of the cleat that is attached to the cabinet top is controlled by this measurement. The notches in the cleats should be spaced 16" on centers. The lower cleat is fastened to the cabinet top first.

In order to locate the upper cleat on the ceiling, a plumbline is dropped from the ceiling. After the location of the upper cleat has been established, the next step is to locate the ceiling beams. If the cleat in question runs at right angles to these beams, no difficulty will be encountered when fastening the cleat to the ceiling. If, on the other hand, it is found that the cleat is parallel to the beams, then nailing strips will have to be applied at right angles to the beams and extended out far enough to pick up the cleats.

Wall cabinets flanking a window as shown in the sketch below are treated in the same manner, except for the use of long cleats which extend across both cabinets and across the space between them. The panels are cut to fit the spaces and are fastened with 4-penny nails. Scrollwork is optional.

The new false wall may be painted to match the cabinets. If the paneled surface is to be papered, this work should be done before the molding is applied.