The Golden State: Where & How to Live, Secure, Visit, Enjoy and Thrive in California

Furniture Finishing

0il and Pumice Stone Subbing,—Select the proper grade of pumice stone and a clear rubbing oil. Have the oil in a flat vessel and add the pumice to it or else sprinkle the pumice over the surface after dipping the felt pad into the oil and covering the surface. Be sure the pumice is well distributed on the surface or pad before much pressure is placed on the rubbing felt, otherwise deep streaks may be made by ridges of material on the pad. A good smooth back-and-forth rubbing, lapping only when necessary, will produce a good satin finish. Oil rubbing must not be done in any instance unless it is the last coat. In production shops only a light sanding with fine, dry sandpaper to remove dirt nibs is done on first or second coats, and the main surfacing operation is on the last coat.

SURFACING ENAMEL OR VARNISH COATS

All the methods mentioned for the surfacing of lacquer can be used for either of these materials, and conditions have a great deal to do with the selection of surfacing material. It would seem logical to use a waterproof paper or pumice and water if dust is to be avoided and you are obliged to surface in the same room where pieces are coated. The use of water with any of these materials precludes the immediate coating of the piece, as at least two hours should be allowed in a warm room after washing off a piece with water. On the other hand, no dust will be flying in the air as is the case with dry sanding with finishing paper or steel wool.

Oil rubbing is to be suspended until the last coat, but if such a thing as getting a surface of any consequence is accomplished in two coats, you can surface with pumice stone FP and oil.


Finishing Coats


IT HAS been customary to finish a piece of furniture with the same kind of material as the second coat, and with the advent of lacquer finishing, every coat is of this material, so that the only difference between the coats is the manner of surfacing.

SHELLAC OR SUBSTITUTES

If we take into consideration the finishing of furniture with shellac or other spirit varnishes, the decision would be to finish with this material if a shellac finish is desired. Of course shellac is not heatproof or waterproof, and for that reason is not used in most factories. It dries very hard, however, and seldom press marks, but will mark from hot dishes when the melting point is approached.

Any of the shellac substitutes are much less desirable for a finishing coat, although they do very well in some cases for first coaters. They are usually made from resin gums of low melting point, and while they rub to a very good finish, they will not stand hard usage and will mark easily.