The Golden State: Where & How to Live, Secure, Visit, Enjoy and Thrive in California
Furniture Finishing
WIPING FILLER AND DRYING
The usual drying time for fillers is from fifteen to thirty minutes before wiping, but no rule for wiping can be given, because the drying time depends on the amount of oil or japan in the filler and the consistency after thinner has been added. The more linseed oil added, the slower drying, and the more japan added, the quicker the drying. When the filler is too thick in consistency it will dry rapidly, in fact, too quick for a clean wiping. When the filler has begun to get light in spots or dull in appearance, one should begin to wipe off, using sea moss, excelsior or wood wool or burlap. Any material may be used that will not lie flat on the surface, but has a tendency to cut off the excess filler even with the wood surface. It is best to wipe first across the grain with even pressure and then finish lightly with the grain, being careful to get the filler wiped dean. Allow from eighteen to twenty-four hours for drying.
LIQUID WOOD FILLER
It is often necessary to fill oak twice and also mahogany at times, depending on the grade. Honduras mahogany is light and porous and must be filled twice. Usually the second coat is of a liquid paste variety, such as used on birch and gum.
Where a mill for grinding is at hand, the following mixture can be made for a liquid filler. A good mixer may do, but is not recommended:
To one gallon of good rubbing varnish add 1 quart of turpentine 1 pint japan dryer and mix with 2 or 3 pounds of fine silex. The addition o£ a little corn dextrine will also help to make a good formula, but not over 25% in volume to the silica
Mix the liquids together and then add the powdered silica and dextrine, afterward adding color in japan and running the batch through the mill. Use just enough color to give the proper shade to the filler. This filler can be used on all closegrain woods and should be fairly thin when used.
ALTERNATING FILLER
In most cases where a liquid filler of reliability cannot be had, it is much better to give a coating of shellac varnish, as described in the next chapter. This coating will dry quickly and prevent suction of the finishing coats, or if finishing with lacquer, a spray coat of lacquer, with the addition of twenty per cent shellac, will suffice to prevent suction or sinking of the finishing coats.
