ANTIQUE LACQUER FINISH
"Water stain of desired shade is first applied, a typical one for mahogany consisting of 3 oz. bichromate of potash, 2 oz. jet nijrrosene, Va oz. mahogany brown, 2 oz. lemon yellow and 1 oz. walnut brown to 15 gallons water; for walnut, V± oz- walnut brown and Vi oz- mahogany brown to 2x/2 gallons water. This is followed by a wash coat of 2 parts 4-lb. cut white shellac to 1 part alcohol, and sanding, after which the method is the same for both woods.
The filler should be a black transparent one, reduced with naphtha to what would be a milk rather than the regular cream consistency as it is not intended to fill the pores flush. After wiping, the filler is allowed to dry 24 hours and is then shaded with the spirit shading stain formula described in Book ITT, Chapter IX. When dry. the case is finished with two coats medium lustre flat lacquer, applied at 24-hour intervals, the last coat rubbed with a waxed rag in 48 hours. All work is done by spraying.
BUILT UP LACQUER FINISH
Where a closer approximation of the conventional varnish system is desired, the following schedule is used. The work is stained and filled in the regular way. allowing 24 hours for the water stain to dry and 48 hours for the filler which is applied so as to fill the pores flush with the surface and vising a filler constructed to withstand lacquer solvents. This is important. Xow apply a coat of high-grade wood lacquer and allow a full 24 hours before applying the second coat. Allow 48 hours before applying the third coat, adding 24 hours to the drying of each successive lacquer coat; from four to seven coats may be applied, according to the depth and fullness of finish desired. After the final coat of lacquer is on the work, it should be allowed to stand almost a week so that all lacquer solvents will evaporate and all of the shrinkage that is going to take place will have occurred before the lacquer surface is rubbed. After the surface has been rubbed it should be fine-rubbed and polished or fine-rubbed and left dull as desired, without applying further coats of lacquer. All work is done by spraying except filler.
LACQUER VERSUS VARNISH
A lacquer finish on pianos has been slow to develop and has not yet had claimed for it greater economy or the same qualities of body or lustre as varnish. It has, however, shown remarkable results in point of freedom from the marring, chipping, shrinking and checking troubles so frequently associated in the past with varnish. A lacquer finish is especially recommended where cases are intended for export shipment.