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Coloring Finishing And Painting Wood
If wax has been applied over an old varnish, it is very important that it be entirely removed with gasoline, benzine, benzol, or turpentine, because other finishes will not adhere to a waxed surface.
In refinishing with enamel, it is often possible to omit the shellacking and priming-coats. If they are found necessary after entirely removing an old finish, they should be applied, and the directions for new finishes followed. The number of undercoats depends upon the covering and coloring-power of the paint which is being applied, and the grade of finish desired.
A good refinishing job can often be obtained by the use of two coats of properly colored undercoating paint, followed by another of one-half enamel and one-half undercoating paint, prepared as described previously in this chapter, together with one coat of enamel of the desired color for the final finish.
171. Application of Enamels.—It is necessary that enameling be done in a place having a temperature of 70° to 80° F. If the temperature is below 70° F., the enamel will not flow freely under the brush, which will seem to stick to the surface or ''pull," making it impossible to spread the new coating quickly, evenly, and easily.
Enamel which is too thick spreads with much difficulty, because the brush does not slide freely over the surface but sticks and "pulls," much as it does when the room and material are too cold. The surface is apt to show brushmarks and waves and an uneven surface if a finisher attempts to apply too heavy a coat. Thinning with an enamel-reducer, previously described, is the proper remedy.
A rather thick or heavy coat can be applied in a warm room if the enamel is warmed by placing the container in a pan or pail of hot water which has been removed from the fire. A thick enamel may be made to flow on the surface more easily by slightly thinning the mixture with camphorated turpentine, prepared by dissolving one-half ounce of gum camphor in a quart of turpentine or a mixture of equal parts of turpentine and benzine. Instead of thinning with camphorated turpentine, some finishers prefer to add small quantities of water-white kerosene, glycerine, or even olive-oil or castor-oil. On account of their color the oils just mentioned may be objectionable for use in white enamels. All things considered the most satisfactory method of spreading thick enamel is to apply it when it is warm and in a warm place.
Enamels dry much faster in a warm than in a cold room, and present smoother and more attractive surfaces. If a finishing-room becomes cold at night, a wet film or coating of enamel dries slowly; consequently it absorbs more dust particles which are as harmful to such a finish as to a varnished surface.
