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After all the edges have been joined and tacked down, tack around the outside of the padding, placing tacks or staples about 6 in. apart. Then trim the padding around the outside where it meets the tackless strip—or 11/2 in. from the wall, if the turn-and-tack method of installation is used.

Automatic stapling hammers (Fig. 7.2) are used by most installation mechanics for wood floors. They make the anchoring of padding a simple, one-hand operation that leaves the other hand free to adjust and hold the padding as it is being anchored.

Linoleum paste is used to anchor padding to concrete floors (Fig. 7.3).

Padding should be anchored more securely around radiator pipes and similar points where carpet as well as padding has to be carefully cut and fitted to intricate contours. If you are obliged to use padding of lesser quality that comes apart more readily under strain, the same applies also—use more staples, tacks or linoleum paste to make sure the Padding will stay in place.

Some mechanics claim that no tacking or pasting is necessary where a single one-piece padding without cuts or seams is laid under a carpet, provided the carpet is properly and firmly laid. Theoretically this may well be true but for the average mechanic it is a somewhat risky practice and may lead to complaints from the customer either on the spot or later, if the padding or carpet should move, bunch up or in any way change position due to any cause.

STAIR INSTALLATIONS

Padding is available in various stair widths, as indicated on page 97, but frequently the necessary amount can be cut from the same roll that was used for the main areas, after all other cuts have been made.