The Golden State: Where & How to Live, Secure, Visit, Enjoy and Thrive in California

The Practical Built In Funiture

Here you may have low tie-beams that make it unwise to attach the ceiling to their undersides. The alternative is to leave them open and board in the rafters as in Fig. 12. Any roof insulation must then be applied between the rafters and behind the boarding. In this type of roof nothing is gained by closing in the rafters all the way down to the wall plate. A much better appearance is obtained by walling off the rafter feet simply by erecting a wall about 4 feet high under the rafter slope, as in the sketch.

This is done by erecting a frame of 2x4 lumber on which to nail wallboard. The space behind this wall need not be wasted. The 4-foot wall can be opened anywhere, with a 2x4 frame around the hole, and shelves, drawers or a cupboard built in. A simple access door lets you use the space for storage.


Construction Details for Parts of Built-in Units


Shelves

ONE of the commoner operations involved in making built-in furniture is the mounting of shelves. The sketches in Fig. 13 show several methods. The simplest way to get a level shelf that is strongly supported is to nail or screw (and perhaps glue) square strips of wood to the sides of the case (Fig. 13a). The shelf can then be laid on loosely or held with finishing nails. The drawback to this method is that the ends of the supports may be visible and detract from the appearance. Quarter-round strips (Fig. 13b) show less and make a neater job, as also does a piece of cove molding (Fig. 13c).

In any case, a more professional result is obtained by covering the front edge of each side with a vertical strip (Fig. 13d). Where this wide edge is not desirable (as in some modern designs) the shelf can be fitted into channels cut into the sides of the case (Fig. 13e). These channels (called dadoes), however, are not easy to cut across a wide

board without a bench saw. A practical alternative may be to hold the shelf with screws through the sides, the screws being countersunk into the wood and their heads covered with plastic wood. The drawback to this is that screwing or nailing into end grain is not always satisfactory. You may split the shelf board and you may not get a strong joint. A shelf attached in this manner contributes very little to the strength or rigidity of the structure.

A better way to support a shelf is to fasten a pair of vertical strips (say 3/4 inch x 1 inch) to each side, at the edge (Fig. 13f). These strips would extend from one shelf to another, with gaps between their ends for the shelf board. Or you could use solid boards in place of the strips; these would give the effect of a dado (Fig. 13g).